Queensland fashion: Culture, not cringe

Workroom to Sales floor

In early Australia, if you needed something that was made-to-measure, or was fit for a parlour, you might go to see a draper for fabric and then a dressmaker. As a result, dressmaking was an incredibly sought-after skill and a thriving industry for many Queensland women.

Janet Walker demonstrates the importance of dressmaking as one of the few reputable means of employment and income for women. At the height of her business Walker had large workrooms at Adelaide St, employing 120 women to create, “all that is good and fashionable in dress and style” (The Queenslander, 1897). Walker even invented a plastic bust that assisted with sizing accuracy. It was so popular it was exported overseas and used by dressmakers at the illustrious House of Worth (Brisbane Courier 1904, Buick and King, 2015). While Janet Walker was perhaps the most well-known name in fashion circles due to the success of her operation, many dressmakers were working in Queensland at this time, demonstrating a market for up-to-date fashions.

The Sunshine State

By the 50s and 60s Queensland was being marketed as a tropical tourist destination and we had the outfits to match. Gold Coast designer, Paula Stafford, was credited with bringing the bikini to Australia with her novel reversible design. The bikini, invented in France, immediately drew the ire of conservatives yet was celebrated by some as an act of defiance and women’s liberation (Four Corners, 1961). Stafford manufactured and sold from Paula Stafford’s Tog Shop on Cavill Avenue, Surfer’s Paradise, eventually selling in stores as far away as Melbourne and London. Stafford claimed, “There are more bikinis worn in Surfers Paradise than anywhere else in Australia…It is recognised now as a testing ground for holiday fashion” (RetroFocus, Unknown).

From the Beach to the Couturier

It was not only holiday fashions that had mid-century Australian fashionistas buzzing. Gwen Gillam left school at 13, to become a self-made businesswoman, which set her apart in the 40s and 50s. From rooms in the Brisbane Arcade, she specialised in formal and bridal wear, with many customers travelling especially to Brisbane just to have a garment made by Gillam. In business for 46 years, Gillam’s longevity and enduring legacy is a testament to her design prowess and entrepreneurial skill.

Fashionable Identity

Contemporary Queensland designers use fashion to represent their identity and ideals. The early 90s saw the emergence of Mark Wilson of the Hairy Dog label in Brisbane, who made colourful and eye catching garments, popular with the queer nightclub scene, at a time when it was not encouraged or easy to be visible due to prejudice. Labels like Easton Pearson were at the forefront of slow fashion, bringing ethical fashion from Brisbane to boutiques around the world, before it was being actively discussed in the wider community. Contemporary Queensland fashion has also seen the push to elevate First Nations designs with BrisFest 2021 hosting First Nations Fashion: Walking Between Two Worlds spotlighting Queensland Indigenous owned and run fashion labels such as Jarawee and Magpie Goose.

Queensland fashion now looks to contribute its identities to the national and global fashion conversation. There is a strong history of fashion design and manufacture in Queensland with our own expressive and colourful twist. As Queensland becomes stronger in its inclusive identity and innovation, our fashion industry continues to reap the benefits.